Che Bella Siena !!!
Beautiful Siena!
Siena is a diminutive beauty holding its own in the shadow of majestic and powerful Florence, 35 miles to the north. Definitely one of our favorite Tuscan towns, it holds a special place in our heart since we first explored it in 1999. Ever since we went back many times in our search for the perfect Tuscan Villa rental! With its picturesque setting and lovely medieval architecture and art, Siena is a treasure to be relished. It’s also a wonderful place to stroll around in and enjoy the sights, thanks to its many pedestrian-only streets. Before you amble into Siena’s lanes and flower-box accented courtyards, linger a bit in its heart, the Piazza il Campo, its main square. This impressive shell-shaped area is ringed by centuries old buildings in richly-colored red brick and stone with shops and cafes on the ground level. Here, you can nibble your riccirelli (almond macaroon cookie) or panforte (dense honey bread with fruit and nuts) and sip your cappuccino and people-watch after exploring the imposing City Hall, City Tower (Torre del Mangia), and Civic Museum (Museo Civico) that anchor the piazza.
A Break at a cafe
A Masterpiece
Come in the evening to get the true local flavor and avoid the crowds. Finally, near il Campo lies the fantastical Duomo (Siena’s cathedral), built in 1215 and expanded and renovated into the late 1300s. Outside, this architectural beauty is adorned with sculptures of Bible scenes, decorative columns, gargoyles, stained glass, and a bell tower. Its striking façade is reminiscent of Florence’s Duomo, with white, greenish black, and red marble striping its exterior. Inside, the treasures are many with 13th century frescoes, a mosaic floor, a gilded hexagonal dome, numerous statues, and works by artistic masters Donatello, Bernini, and Michelangelo.
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The Cathedral of Siena
Tradition
Aside from the everyday wonders of Siena, visitors can experience a beloved celebration of cultural pride and heritage with the Palio di Siena, a centuries old horse race and festival held each year on July 2nd and August 16th. This horse race is a fast and furious two-minute scramble by ten bare-back jockeys riding for glory. Loads and loads of dirt are dumped and smoothed over Siena’s main square to serve as the race track. This four-day event culminates in the race and the pre-race procession which has been described as a breathtaking affair of glitzy pageantry—think elaborately costumed drummers and trumpeters, armor-clad knights wielding swords, oxen pulling Palio relics poised in flower-draped carts, scores of colorful contrade flags, and hoards of cheering Sienans! The passion behind this cherished Siena tradition lies in the pride of each of its neighborhood affiliations or contrade. Siena is divided into 17 contrade, each with its own distinct colors and mascot, which you will see on flags, sculptures, and building walls. During the Palio, jockeys represent their contrada and are bedecked with its colors and symbols. Sienans are fundamentally attached to their contrada like family and considered to be of the contrada of their birth, no matter where they move. This experience truly offers an insider’s view of the Sienese culture. Now we’re off to another lovely hillside village, San Gimignano.
San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy
San Gimignano
This medieval village, founded by the Etruscans, lies 900 feet high on a hill between Florence and Siena. It is best known for its medieval towers which once numbered in the 70s. During the Middle Ages, San Gimignano was situated on Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s road to Rome. Because of its location, it hosted many devout travelers and generated much wealth for the merchants who served them. Some of the merchants, who’d become rich selling the much-treasured saffron of this region, built lofty tower homes from which they could safely control the town and feud with their neighbors. Aside from competing for the title of tallest tower, these powerful merchants funded the many Romanesque frescoes, sculptures, and paintings that adorn San Gimignano’s churches and monasteries. Today, only 14 towers remain to dot the skyline but UNESCO has designated this village a World Heritage Site and it is worth seeing for its uniqueness.
Villa Rosina, Pienza, Tuscany
San Gimignano is also known for its famous Chianti wines
With nearby Chianti growing world-renowned red wine, San Gimignano brings its light and aromatic white wine to the table, Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Another agricultural specialty of this area is saffron, which as we’ve seen made many medieval merchants quite wealthy. It is said that saffron was deemed so valuable during the early 1200s, it was used as currency, in part, by San Gimignano’s Town Council to repay a debt. As you dine in San Gimignano’s eateries, look for the influence of saffron in the dishes. In the animal world, local cinghiale (wild boar) is featured in many of the Tuscan recipes here, from stews to salami. If you prefer to eat dessert first, you might opt for pinolata, a rich dish of custard and pine nuts.
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